(no subject)

[electricland]

Went by the house last night. Did not step on any of the refinished floors because I was afraid of doing them terrible damage. (Presumably I will get the OK to step on them at some point.) But I admired from afar, those I could see, and they are truly lovely and Jen's kitchen floor in particular is going to be incredible -- it's all these short (maple?) boards of varying widths, lovely colour, for which you would pay large quantities of cash money these days.

Perhaps we will put kitchens together this weekend.

Then went to A's to watch Veronica Mars. To which I can only say: eeeeee!

Comments

[nellisir.livejournal.com]

Speaking from experience, nothing, and I mean -nothing-, gets a floor installer going like footprints in finish. (no, it wasn't me. I think.)

24 hrs is usually safe for poly finishes. Quick dries can be recoated in 3-4, but the top coat is usually a slower drying one.

And I'm sure this is totally unnecessary and obvious advice, but few things damage soft (pine) floors (even oak to some extent) like stiletto heels (and maybe tap shoes). Maple's pretty kick-ass hard, though. Maple, bamboo, beech....

Yeah, I'm totally going nowhere with this stuff. Enjoy your floors. :)

[electricland.livejournal.com]

I don't know exactly what it is they're using, but it's oil-based.

Will definitely keep the shoe advice in mind. Not that I plan to be installing kitchen cabinets while wearing stilettos, mind you, but later on if when we actually live there, this will be important.

Pictures coming one day. ;)

Also, Ed the floor guy says to install the cabinets first and then he'll come back and do the top layer and fix any scuffs if necessary, which seems sensible.

[nellisir.livejournal.com]

Absolutely good advice. It's what we do.

Do as much as you can, and have him come back as late as possible. He'll rebuff the floors, (which will give everything a very fine layer of dust), and then final coat. Move the appliances in beforehand, and have him just go up to them. Make sure you get a can of whatever he's using (though top coats are usually clear, so you should be able to match sheens with off-the-shelf poly). If you get scratches later, I've had great success with a light sanding and a spot recoat. Just make sure to match the sheen or you'll have to do it again.

[nellisir.livejournal.com]

Oh, and because the painters (not ours) at The Job That Never Ends did this...NEVER, EVER tape anything down (like dropclothes or rosin paper) to a finished floor. Or painted wood. Even the low-adhesion painter's tape will take the finish off after a couple days (or, as the painters discovered, two months).